A dog that pulls is the number one reason people stop enjoying their walks. And it's almost always approached the wrong way, because it's treated as an obedience problem when it's really a learning one.
Why does your dog pull on the leash?
For two very simple reasons:
- They walk faster than you. Their natural pace is quicker than ours. A taut leash is, for them, the normal state of things.
- It has worked for them their whole life. They pull, and they move forward. They pull, and they reach the good-smelling tree sooner. From their point of view, pulling is a strategy with an impeccable track record.
There's a third factor that almost nobody takes into account: the opposition reflex. When something pulls a dog backward, their instinct is to push forward. The more you pull, the more they pull. They aren't challenging you: it's a reflex.
Which leash and harness should you use?
Before you start training, check what you're heading out with. With the wrong equipment, even the best training in the world is an uphill battle.
- A harness instead of a collar. A dog that pulls on a collar compresses their trachea with every tug. A harness spreads the force across the chest.
- With a front ring if they pull a lot. Clipping the leash to the chest, rather than the back, makes the dog turn toward you when they pull instead of moving forward. It's not magic, but it takes the force out of the pull and gives you room to work.
- A fixed-length leash, 1.5 to 2 meters. Elastic leashes teach exactly the opposite of what you want: that pulling gets you more rope.
- A control handle if your dog is large. A short handle on the back of the harness lets you hold them firmly when crossing the street or when another dog passes, without yanking the leash.
The method: stop rewarding the pull
There's only one idea: pulling stops working. Everything else is a variation.
- Taut leash, feet still. As soon as the leash tightens, stop. Don't pull, don't scold. Simply stop moving forward.
- Wait. Sooner or later they'll slacken the leash, even if only for a second, or turn around to look at you.
- Slack leash, the walk continues. At that moment, start walking again. Moving forward is the reward.
- Reinforce when they walk beside you. A small treat given at the exact second they're at your side is worth more than ten corrections.
The first walks will be slow and frustrating. That's normal: you're undoing a habit that's months or even years old.
Three details that speed up the process a lot
- Take them out when they're a bit tired. Ten minutes of play before heading out greatly reduces the anxiety of the first few meters, which is when they pull the most.
- Keep treats within easy reach. If you have to rummage around in your pocket, you're too late. A waist pouch lets you reward at just the right moment, which is the only thing the dog connects with what they've just done.
- Let them sniff. Set aside parts of the walk for them to sniff at their own pace. A dog who is never allowed to sniff pulls more, because the whole walk becomes a negotiation.
How long does it take for them to stop pulling?
With daily consistency, most dogs improve noticeably in two or three weeks. The key isn't being tough, it's that the rule never fails: if one day they pull and move forward because you're late for something, you've gone back a step that day.
In our dog walking section you'll find harnesses with front rings and control handles, fixed-length leashes and elastic leashes, and in training, waist treat pouches.